The region of Kumaon is the stretch of Himalayas in India, segregated by Nepal in the east and deep gorges made by the River Ganga’s main tributaries in the west. While in the north, it has a beautiful stretch of snow capped peaks, on it’s southern edge it has evergreen Terai forests full of tigers and elephants. When approached from the North India plains, the ascent through the jungles to the higher reaches makes for a dramatic and scenic journey each time. 

How fascinating is Kumaon? While the Himalayas are known for their stunning beauty, Himalayas in Kumaon feel like home. Kumaon is more gentle, without frightening bends and turns. Kumaon’s peculiarity lies in mountain views, beautiful homes, nicely defined walking trails, birds and gracious hospitality from the people who populate this region. For these many reasons, it is easy to make countless trips to Kumaon. A simple visit to Kumaon with simple experiences naturally becomes an addiction over time. There are no rivers in Kumaon, instead, there are streams, aquifers and nullahs. And there are perfectly winding roads, clinging to slopes where one likes to stop the car and gently explore the birding points. For miles, there are sprawling valley views on one side and pine clad hills on the other. And in the distance, there is a continuous range of impressive peaks clad in permanent snow like welcomed friends. There are also spurs and ridges that are truly stunning and individually identifiable with charming old British era houses and new age bungalows with orchards. Each home has a host, often a couple or family. Some have been entertaining guests through generations, while others have left successful careers in the world to settle here in peace. There are stories, stories and more stories. The British residents and officers of times past have left a definite imprint in Kumaon. They lived in lovely old cottages and led a life different from others in India. Homes with valley view verandahs, a fireplace in the living room, book collections,breakfast under the sun, a nursery of flowers and a penchant for making fruit preserves. Related to those British officers are the stories of animals, expeditions, surveys, far spaced communities and even ghosts. For the officers to effectively survey the land, they built rows of bungalows and rest houses in the forests and ridges. Each such bungalow had retainers, gardeners and cooks. Many such bungalows still remain evocative places. And while the old retainers adequately fulfill their jobs, brew great chai and offer decent meals, they are more endearing as narrators of great stories. The idea of a cottage connected through a pergola, with the kitchen and staff rooms lives alive even now.

The modern cottages are at once experiments in both luxury and minimalism, with the wizardry of nature and it’s views capping all the entertainment. Besides organic farming and wonderful cottage level craftsmanship, people now take to on foot explorations, book clubs and food appreciation clubs. The Kumaon air is stimulating and inspires exploration. There are descents into the valley, crossing streams and traversing terraced fields as well as villages of slate roofed houses. Here you will most always arrive at a trail head, a little bazaar of provisions and sometimes ancient sculpted temples.Not surprising as Kumaon was in between the traditional route of pilgrimage and trade with Tibet and Kailash - Mansarovar. Many people are not aware that at one time, there were several glorious dynasties thriving in Kumaon. Many Rajput warriors, fearing persecution, had relocated their kingdoms in the Himalayas. With them they brought several martial arts practices, traditions and even different styles of painting.

Of books, writers and poets, perhaps the greatest fascination towards life in Kumaon is to read or write books. Many spots like Mukteshwar, Ramgarh, Ranikhet, and Nainital are associated with interesting legends of the likes of Jim Corbett and George Everest. Wildlife writers have long associated Kumaon with birds, leopards and tigers.

Glimpses of Kumaoni Village Life